FAQ

FAQs updated October 23, 2018

Here’s part of an article from a local Cozumel newspaper

“Cozumel enjoys a security that is envied by many other entities in the country. According to a recent survey, 93% of tourists to the island said they planned to return and 100% said they thought Cozumel was a safe place to visit.

“Cozumel Police Chief Rudy Erosa Navarrete informed that as of today they have not registered a single public murder, bank robbery or kidnapping, making Cozumel one of the safest cities in the country.

“Police commander Victor Alvear Martínez informed that the principal crime here on the island is motorcycle theft. This month a total of 8 thefts were reported, however, the police have recovered all but two.” (Cozumel News in English, www.CozumelMyCozumel.com)

Airlines have set up bargain-basement sale racks for select customers. All you have to do is sign up.

Travelers can land promo codes, which generally can be used even for previously discounted tickets, by signing up for alerts from specific airlines, or from fare-watching Web sites like Airfarewatchdog.com and FareCompare.com.

Airfarewatchdog sends out alerts about promo codes; FareCompare posts them on a blog on its site.

Do I need a passport?

All U.S. citizens traveling by air to and from Mexico are required to have a valid passport to enter the U.S. This is a change from prior travel requirements, which in many cases allowed travel with a driver’s license or birth certificate. See www.CozumelParadise.com/airlines.htm for more information.

RESTAURANT RECOMMENDATIONS

These are some of our favorites. Cozumel has a huge number of restaurants, and there are many we haven’t tried. Most have full bar service.

La Perlita Calle 10 Norte/bis y 70Avenue. A great locals place, outside the tourist area. One of the few places that serves lionfish. Delicious!

Chedraui and Mega are the two grocery superstores across the street from the condo (Chedraui is immediately opposite; Mega is two blocks away). Since Casa Phoenix has a fully-equipped kitchen, you might want to shop at either store and prepare your own meals. A tip: don’t buy the beef. It’s shoeleather.

La Conchita del Caribe on 65 Ave. between 13 & 15th streets — fantastic shrimp ceviche. Ask for the whole fried fish — you pick out your fresh-caught fish (usually red snapper and hogfish) from the cooler!

Rolandis, next door to our condo building. Our go-to place when we don’t feel like going very far. Northern Italian and more. Outdoor waterfront dining, very romantic!

. New Especias restaurant 3rd St. between 5 and 10 is a mix of locals and tourists. Try the lionfish!

For a change of pace, go to 30 Ave. for hamberguesas (hamburgers). Cooked outdoors on a majorly smoking wood fire, cost about 12 pesos each last time we were there, carry-out or al fresco. A local place, most tourists never find it.

Kinta — a fabulous new gourmet restaurant off the downtown Plaza, 5th Ave. between 2nd and 4th north, local phone 869-0544). I’d call the cuisine “Continental-Mayan fusion.” Full bar, wine list.

Il Giardino: An Italian Grill Everyone is raving about it. Open from 11 a.m. – 6 p.m.

Plaza Leza — On the downtown Plaza. Gets raves for shrimp ceveche, fresh fish.

La Choza — 10th Ave. off the Plaza. A Cozumel institution, and deservedly so. Mayan cuisine. Recommended: the whole fish with garlic (seasonal, not on the menu). A favorites with locals. FYI: If you already know La Choza, it’s no longer where it was. It was torched on Aug. 10, 2008, and they rebuilt around the corner.

The restaurant at the Convention Center right across from our condo.

Rock ‘n Java Caribbean — American-style for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Just a block from the condo toward town. American-owned, gourmet sandwiches, soups, salads, unbelievable homemade desserts (apple pie almost half a foot high!).

Rock ‘n Java Thai Noodle Bar — in the Mega Superstore building. Local phone 869-2794. We get carryout here most every time we’re on island.

Coffee Bean — local gringo hangout that serves a variety of American and European coffees, espresso, cappucino and yummy desserts. No bar.

Chilango’s — a couple of blocks east of the condo, in a private home. You eat in their living room. Only open for lunch. Very local. Ask for fish if it isn’t on the menu. Don’t expect anyone to speak English. A different experience! No bar.

Mescalito’s on the deserted east side. A beach bar with strong Margaritas, good burgers, great shrimp dishes, Mexican food. THE LAST TWO TIMES WE WERE THERE THEY OVERCHARGED US — WORD TO THE WISE.

Coconuts Next to Mescalito’s. A popular beach bar.

There are many others we haven’t tried, so this list is by no means complete. If you discover a great place, please let us know! There are hundreds of restaurants on Cozumel. It’s fun to explore and find new ones.

Outside the tourist area are many hole-in-the-wall places. Thanks to having a close friend who is Mexican and lives in Cozumel, we’ve eaten at many of them that few tourists ever see. Part (most?) of the fun is discovering these places yourself or, better, with a local friend who knows them and who will steer you away from places that leave a lot to be desired in the areas of good food and sanitation. If you decide to venture outside the tourist area in search of the “real” Cozumel dining experience, do so at your own risk. Don’t misunderstand — the risk is not to you externally (crime is virtually nonexistent), it’s internally.

Also see http://www.cozumelmycozumel.com/Pages/Food&DrinkIndex.htm

A good friend who has been going to Cozumel several times a year for over 20 years sent this report on a new restaurant:

Bill,

Last night we ate at a local seafood restaurant and everyone deemed it the best and it is very inexpensive. The waiter is named Victor and we have known him for 17 years. He worked at Capi Navigante, but they closed and we were pleased to see him again.

Victor made the original Margarita from Capi Navaganti with what he called a small improvement I must tell you it was fantastic. Different than mine, but what a kick. We all intend to go again.

Jason and I both thought this was the best cerviche, even better than La Conchita which is very good. The fish filet was from a fish we had never eaten and none of us can say the name, but we deemed this the best fish we have eaten.

Just asked Victor what the options are for preparation. Jason had fish stuffed with seafood like crab, and shrimp and with a plant something like spinach but not. It was just excellent.

I have been told they are fishermen who started their own restaurant. All the fish, and lobster is fresh

The Name is La Perlita. Address is Calle 10 Norte/bis y70Avenue.

Is this a good place for children?

There’s lots for them to do on their own right on the property: depending upon their age, swimming in the large freshwater pool, in the kiddie pool, in the ocean, snorkeling, the beach, etc. They can walk across the street to the new multiplex cinema (first-run American movies, stadium seating, surround sound), shopping mall and brand-new bowling alley. There’s a “swim with the dolphins” attraction a block away. For the older ones, the museum, locals disco and some American-style nightlife (Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Senior Frog) is within a couple of blocks. The Cozumel Hard Rock Cafe is a 15 minute walk or a short taxi ride. Horseback riding and tennis are options as well. We have several TVs in the units with Dish Network, free Netflix and a library of DVDs, plus board games, playing cards, books, magazines, etc.

We discourage children under 5 in Casa Phoenix, because there are four balconies and it’s on the 7th floor.

Should we fly into Cancun or Cozumel?

It’s much more convenient to fly directly into Cozumel International Airport. It’s a small airport and a 15 minute shuttle ride to Casa Phoenix.

There is an air shuttle service that flies directly into Cozumel International Airport in 15 minutes from Cancun. Last I checked it costs $63.00 per person. http://www.mayair.com.mx

Here is other information on Cancun Airport transportation: www.cancun-airport.com/transportation.htm

See http://www.cozumelparadise.com/airlines.htm for information about airlines, visa, etc.

What is the configuration of the bedrooms?

Casa Phoenix four bedrooms. Each bedroom has an attached private bathroom with sink, vanity, commode and shower. There are three bedrooms with one king bed each and one bedroom with two queens. Every bedroom has its own attached private bath. Of course, linens, pillows, towels, etc. are furnished, along with daily maid service at no additional charge. See htty://www.CozumelParadise.com/interiorphotos.htm

How many people can stay in the condo?

The maximum occupancy for Casa Phoenix is 8. It has 3 bedrooms with one king bed each and one bedroom with two queen beds.

We can increase this for a couple of children.

There is absolutely no sleeping permitted on the couches or chairs (or floors, walls, ceilings, etc.)

Is there a washer & dryer in the unit? A safe?

Yes and yes. There is a digital safe in each bedroom.

Are towels, linens, beach towels, soap, dishes, silverware, glasses, pots and pans, etc. provided?

Yes, all of the above and more.

Do the “Mexican Super Wal-Marts” across the street have items we will be familiar with, or will there be mostly Mexican products?

Chedraui is directly across the street. There is a second Super Wal-Mart-type store, Mega, two blocks away that’s even better stocked. There are quite a few U.S. and other familiar brands. If you want to cook there’s plenty to choose from. They both also have a pharmacy, deli, bakery, fresh fish, imported gourmet items, liquor, a fairly extensive wine selection from around the world, beer, toiletries, clothing, etc. Everything is safe to eat, but if you buy produce get some iodine solution (they sell it in the produce dept.) and wash all fresh produce.

Do we need shots before going to Mexico?

No.

Speaking of safety, once again: DO NOT RENT A SCOOTER!!

Is it safe to drink the tap water?

Yes. The water in our building goes through an extensive filtering process and is also exposed to germ-killing UV light.

Do most people speak English?

Yes, in the tourist areas. English is very common in Cozumel.

What time of year is the best?

Summer in the tropics is very hot and humid (of course, the condo has central air conditioning). But it’s less crowded and cheaper then, and you may get (somewhat) used to the heat. Plus, the days are longest in the summer. The coolest time of the year is October – April. From November – February, days are usually in the 60s – 70s°F and nights in the 60s°F or sometimes even a bit cooler. Winter is the driest season. Spring brings warmer weather, moderate humidity and pleasant cool nights.

Our favorite time of year in Cozumel is Fall. It’s low season and the weather is delightful. And we have the lowest rates of the year in September and October!

Hurricane season is June through November.

See http://www.cozumelparadise.com/weather.htm

Do you have a beach?

Yes, a very nice sandy one. But it is not the wide beach that gently slopes into a long shallow sandy bottom. Cozumel has few beaches like that, and they are all miles from anywhere. You can’t have both great snorkeling/diving and a beach sloping into long shallow sandy bottom. They just don’t go together. Sandy bottoms are not conducive to coral formations and fish life.

Our beach is built on a seawall that is on almost gin-clear water perfect for snorkeling, swimming and scuba diving, but there is no surf to play in. The beach is white sand with palapas (large thatch umbrellas), a large (50′ x 25′) freshwater pool, flagstone sundeck, plenty of beach furniture, etc., built on a seawall.

We do have a small natural rocky/sand cove where you can enter the water in the traditional beach way, but it’s not an easy entrance. Or you can use the swim ladders, or just jump in (it’s about 10 feet at the end of the dock).

Will we need to rent a car?

No! That’s one of the main reasons to stay at Casa Phoenix. You are pretty much in the middle of everything and you will save money, because you won’t need a rental car or taxis. Restaurants and shopping are right in the neighborhood. The main plaza and ferry dock is about a 15 minute walk along the oceanfront promenade. If you don’t feel like walking, taxis are plentiful and a short ride to almost anywhere. Most of the major U.S. car rental companies have offices in Cozumel, and there are some local companies as well. Tip: Rent a car online instead of going to the local office. You’ll save a lot. You can park your rental car in our underground garage. But it’s great fun to rent a car for a day or two and explore the island (see the q&a below under “other recommendations”). Driving around town is a challenge and we don’t recommend it (make sure you get the insurance), but when you get out of town it’s no problem.

Should we rent a moped/scooter?

NO!!! The injury and death rate is horrible, even among people who know how to operate them. Combine unfamiliar traffic laws and Cozumel drivers on Cozumel and you have a recipe for disaster.

How easy it is to get a taxi? Are they expensive?

The taxis fight for your business. You can get to the Plaza from our condo for about $5.00, the airport for about $10.00. Set the fare BEFORE you go. The fares are supposed to be standardized, but we’ve found that some drivers get creative with their prices.

A tip: You’ll save a few bucks if you aren’t picked up or dropped off right in front of our building, the grocery store across the street, or at any tourist attraction. The taxis charge more for trips from and to hotels, tourist attractions, grocery stores, malls and condos. Walk half a block down the street from the condo and hail a taxi, and when you return have them drop you at the Palacio Municipal (City Hall), across the street from our building.

Should we get the insurance offered by the car rental company?

Check with your insurance agent at home. But don’t wait until you get here — book on-line for the best deal.

What is it like driving in Cozumel?

In town, let’s just say it’s a challenge. You’d better be a good driver — because nobody else is.

Almost all of the streets, except the major ones, are one-way, and they don’t always have signs that tell you that. Most of the streets, especially downtown, are narrow, and people don’t always obey the stop signs (there are few traffic lights). Sight lines at corners are usually obscured. The challenges are compounded by the numerous scooters driven by locals. They don’t seem to get the idea that there are cars on the road.

Bottom line: Unless you are very confident in your driving and have experience driving in Mexico, don’t drive in the downtown area — walk or get a taxi.

That said, DO rent a car and drive around the island. Go up north to the golf course and hotel zone, south to the beaches, Punta Sur park, lighthouse, around the southern tip and up the deserted wild east coast. Or go straight across the cross-island (east-west) road. Stop along the way for pictures, the great beaches on the east side (don’t go in the water — very treacherous undertow), and have a libation and lunch at one of the beach bars.

Any other recommendations?

The Plaza, or town square, is a 15 minute walk from the condo (or a 5 minute taxi ride) and steps away from the ferry docks. You MUST spend some time there. When, is another story.

When the cruise ships are in port, the downtown is jumping. If you are into being surrounded by people and hawked at every 10 seconds by street salesmen, go for it when you see the ships disembarking. If you don’t want to be harassed, walk on the ocean side of the street.

If you would rather visit another time, then do so when the ships have left. Some of the stores will be closed, though.

Sunday evening is a very special time downtown. All the ships are gone and the locals come out for the free concert in the Plaza bandshell. You won’t see many gringos, and you will find the people are very friendly and welcoming.

Rent a car and drive straight east to the undeveloped east side of the island. Stop and see the San Gervasio Mayan ruins (don’t expect Chichen Itza — it’s pretty small, but it’s still an authentic Mayan ruin), the roadside shops and tour the Tequila Factory. Drive all the way to the east side of the island, then turn south (the only way the road goes) along the coast (the road north is unpaved and for 4-wheel drive vehicles only — no services if you break down, and it’s a L-O-N-G walk back to civilization). You’ll be going along the east coast of the island, which is the windward, wild side. Don’t worry about getting lost — there’s only one road!

The beaches on the east side of the island are great, but the water is very dangerous, with strong ripping cross-currents, so look but don’t go in.

At the south end, stop and tour the Punta Sur eco-park. Then continue your drive up the west coast, maybe do some snorkeling at Chankanaab Park, go horseback riding, and drive up along the waterfront road past your condo, past town to the north end, see the marina, the high rises and the Nicklaus-designed golf course at the end of the paved road (or play — it’s open to the public if you want to pay the greens fee). Have drinks, lunch or dinner at one of the hotels on the beach.

You can’t do everything in one day, of course. Pick and choose or keep the car for a few days. You can park it in our underground garage or on the street.

Our manager can give you a lot more ideas. These are just some of our favorites.

WORDS FROM THE LOCAL POLICE CHIEF ABOUT TRAFFIC VIOLATIONS and “Courtesy Tickets” El Semanario de Cozumel (translated by “Cozumel News in English” www.CozumelMyCozumel.Com)

The Coordinator of the municipal police, Comandante Ramón Chi Alcocer, stated that there is a subsection of the traffic rules that allows for so-called “Courtesy Tickets” given as a warning only. But normally this possibility is valid only when the infraction is minor and not for a grave offense.

“For example, I have noticed that tourists arrive on Cozumel and rent some type of vehicle or other in order to get to know the island.They are unfamiliar with such things as not parking in places where there is a red curb or right next to a corner. It is in cases like this that the courtesy ticket becomes worthwhile.”

“Right now if the regulations violation is for excessive speed, driving while inebriated or if he is implicated in a road accident, the visitor can no longer enjoy this right,” the Commandante explained.

But fortunately and particularly in the case of tourists that come from the United States and Canada, the great majority have an excellent level of road education, he maintained.

The commandant stated that if a police officer notices a tourist has parked in a restricted area—by a store, for example– his assignment is to notify the driver immediately and make a judgement about how long the tourist plans to stay there–a long time or just for a little while. Because it is not intended to drive away this market by applying the regulations drastically.

But, if the visitor takes a long time more than what he promised, then the ticket of infraction is given and this has to be paid completely.

However, the Commandante added, if the tourist who has commited such an infraction comes in and acknowledges his mistake, there is a good possibility that the ticket will be cancelled. And this is an attitude encouraged by top management in the police department.

If, on the other hand, the visitor comes in trying to cover up or acting in an aggressive manner, then he is not given this solution.

A Great Intro to Mayan Grandeur

The Mayan ruins of Tulum, only an hour from Playa del Carmen, undoubtedly has one of the most breathtaking settings of any city past or present. The only significant large scale Mayan ruin on the coast, it is perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean Sea.

The city of Tulum was at its height during the 13th-15th century, and is thus one of the later Mayan outposts. It flourished during the 14th century and was still inhabited when the Spanish arrived in the early 16th century. Tulum was an important trading post for the Post classic Mayans. There is a beach where merchants could come ashore with their canoes. The highest building, El Castillo, was also a lighthouse to make navigation easier. When two torches aligned, it showed the way through the reef. During the Post classic period, the Maya started to use large seagoing canoes. The canoes were 40-50 feet long and hewn from mahogany or other tropical hardwoods. These canoes revolutionized trading in the Mundo Maya. Prior to the advent of this practice, they could only move what could be carried on a person’s shoulders. The Maya didn’t use wagons or beasts of burden, simply because their were no suitable big mammals in the area. Their trading voyages ranged from trips to the Gulf of Mexico, the coast of the Yucatán peninsula, and extending all the way to what is today Honduras. There is even evidence that they went as far as Costa Rica and Panama.

In 1518, an expedition lead by Juan de Grijalva sailed past Tulum. The captain and crew were amazed by the sight of this walled city, with its buildings painted red, blue and white and with a fire on top of the main temple. Some 75 years after the conquest, Tulum was abandoned, but was still visited over the years by Mayan pilgrims. During the War of the Castes, Indian refugees took shelter here from time to time. Because of its location, Western scientists of the late 19th century became aware of Tulum, and excavations started in the early 20th century.

Apart from its setting, Tulum is also unique for the wall that surrounds the town on three sides. The wall averages seven meters in thickness and is three to five meters high. It incorporates an interior walkway, from which spears and rocks might be thrown. With the ocean on the forth side, Tulum could easily defend itself. This fortress has evoked theories that the inhabitants of Tulum were threatened by other people, for there is much evidence that this was a turbulent time in Mayan history. Power shifted between city-states and it is logical to assume that there was a certain amount of warfare. The architecture of Tulum has a significant Toltec influence, but whether this came about through invasion or friendly interchange is impossible to determine. One theory is that the wall was put up by the ruling class to further distance or maybe even protect themselves from the common people. This theory supports the idea that the Mayan civilization was brought down by peasant revolution.

There are about 60 well preserved buildings on the site of Tulum. The most significant of these have plaques with information in English, Spanish and Mayan, so you don’t really need a guide book.

One of our favorite buildings in Tulum is the Temple of the Frescoes. As the name implies, there are frescoes with typical Mayan motifs in the interior. Some of the original colors are relatively well preserved. Outside this building there are some statues, also with traces of paint. Carvings cover this interesting little temple. One image you’ll see on this building, and throughout Tulum, is the diving god. With his wings and his bird’s tail, he’s thought to be a symbol of Kukulkan, the feathered serpent god that played a big importance to many Mesoamerican cultures. He is also believed to be the symbol of the Venus morning star, which played an important role here at Tulum. Being the first city of the Mayan World to see the rising sun every day, Tulum is considered the Mayan ‘City of the Dawn.’ The Temple of the Frescoes is built in three levels, symbolizing the three realms of the Mayan universe – the dark underworld of the dead, the middle level of the living and finally heaven, where the gods lived.

The most outstanding building of Tulum is the Castle, El Castillo, perched on Tulum’s highest cliff. This temple-topped pyramid also served as a watchtower and a lighthouse. Like many important structures in the Mayan world, the current building is the result of different stages of additional construction. It began as a palace-like base, the staircase added at a later date and eventually it was crowned by the temple on top. The doorway to the temple has columns in the shape of rattlesnakes, with the tails supporting the roof and their heads adjoining the floor. Due to the rapidly increasing number of tourists to Tulum, El Castillo is now roped-off, and not possible to climb. However, on the other side of the little beach, there’s another building on a smaller cliff, which you are allowed to climb. From there you will have a fantastic view over El Castillo and the site in general.

Tulum is located about 50 minutes south of Playa del Carmen. The ruins are north of the town. The highway bends away from the coast here, so the town is actually a few minutes drive from the sea. Tulum’s Zona Hotelera, or hotel zone, is reached by turning left at the traffic light before town. Heading to the right are many cenotes, and eventually the ruins of Cobá. The hotel zone leans towards the beach cabaña style, offering everything from simple accommodation options to newer, more costly ‘designer’ style palapas. The town of Tulum has several restaurants and convenience stores for supplies.

You’ll come across the Zona Arqueologica before actually arriving in the town of Tulum. It’s well marked and easy to find. There’s a gas station at the turn, and a few hotels. Parking, which is cheap, is located immediately inside the main entrance. You’ll first come across a tourist complex, where you can still find some authentic pre-columbian artifacts for sale (just kidding) and more-of-the-same style typical souvenirs. There are restrooms here. The actual ruins are about 800 meters from this area, so it’s not a long walk. If you’d rather conserve your strength for the ruins, there’s a tram that leaves every five minutes. Tickets, about two bucks, are sold at the little stall right where the trams turn around. This is also the place to watch the voladores. It’s well worth seeing. Five costumed men recreate a ceremonial ritual first started by the Totonac indians from Veracruz. The flyers begin by climbing the tall pole, then each of four of the men slip a foot into a loop at the end of a rope that is wound around the top of the pole. The fifth team member performs a special dance to each of the four cardinal directions, dancing upon the top of the pole while playing a flute! At the right moment, the four flyers release themselves from the small cap on the pole and fall to earth, circling around the pole in expanding circles as the rope unwinds, eventually touching ground. Don’t try this at home. Most people feel impressed enough to provide a donation afterwards. We think this is a good idea.

The entrance to the ruin complex is through a built-up perforation in the wall. Entrance fee is 38 pesos. Kids under 13 get in for free. There’s an additional charge of 30 pesos if you want to use a video camera. The ruins are open 8 a.m.- 5 p.m. every day. There are plenty of guides offering their services for a fee.

TULUM: Getting There. It’s dead easy to get to Tulum. It’s right down the highway, about 60 kilometers or 50 minutes south of Playa del Carmen. Take the ferry from Cozumel and then choose one of the following options:

Local Bus – leaving from the bus terminal on 5th Avenue and Juarez all the time.

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